Freelance wardobe stylist Mel Reneé Leamon arrives for our video name with a quiet confidence that immediately instructions consideration. Framed from the shoulders up, she wears a black asymmetrical prime paired with chunky silver equipment, exuding a simple cool that mirrors the work she’s constructed her identify on. As we settle into dialog, her voice is candid, considerate, and reflective. It’s the identical spark that’s propelled her from retail flooring to pink carpets, constructing a model, and a reputation that exhibits no indicators of slowing down.
Initially from Miami, Leamon arrived in New York Metropolis over a decade in the past with a transparent imaginative and prescient: to carve out an area for herself in style. Her introduction to the trade was something however typical. Working retail on the now-shuttered Opening Ceremony storefront in Soho, she shortly immersed herself within the metropolis’s inventive community, connecting with photographers, stylists, and designers. Moderately than following the normal path of aiding one stylist for years, she selected a extra expansive route. “I wished to get my fingers in every little thing,” she says. “Editorial, business, pink carpet. I wanted to determine the place I match.”
That method has since paid off. Leamon went on to work with jewellery designer Martine Ali, refining her eye for inventive route earlier than catching the eye of Keke Palmer. Styling the multi-hyphenate for a Refinery29 function and different press moments catalyzed her profession to take flight. “She actually championed me,” Leamon says. “She opened doorways I wouldn’t have had in any other case.”
Quickly after, she transitioned into full-time freelancing, constructing a consumer checklist that continues to develop. Now, with 5 years of freelancing underneath her belt and 12 years in New York Metropolis, Leamon’s journey proves that breaking into style isn’t a couple of single defining second however a sequence of intentional steps ahead.
Under, we caught up with Leamon as she shared insights into her inventive course of, why she favors editorial over business styling, and the way she balances staying on pattern whereas sustaining her signature aesthetic.
ESSENCE: Your portfolio spans editorial and business styling. How do you method every in another way, and do you’ve a favourite?
Mel Reneé Leamon: My favourite is editorial as a result of I like to be inventive. I can method editorial from a unique mindset, the place I’m not sure to a consumer giving me all these parameters inside which to work. I is usually a little extra free and collaborative with the hair and make-up workforce and the photographer.
However I do love my business work as a result of I get to earn cash. Editorials don’t all the time give you that. I’ll say that editorial drives the business work. You gained’t get these high-profile shoppers if they will’t see what you do creatively.
Once I method business work, I take into consideration balancing what the consumer needs with the place their model stands, whereas nonetheless holding my creativity. Even when they need me to tone it down just a little, shoppers rent you in your eye on the finish of the day.
What does prep for a styling challenge seem like for you?
For an editorial challenge, the method normally begins with the workforce presenting me with an thought. From there, I create a temper board to form the styling imaginative and prescient, this course of is comparable for business tasks as nicely. They’ll present a deck outlining the overarching idea, and inside a number of days, I’ll ship a full breakdown of how I envision the styling.
I then dive into analysis, together with pulling references, learning runway collections, or visiting shops to see what’s at present accessible. I take photographs of potential items, set up them right into a deck, and use that as a information earlier than starting the shopping for or pulling course of.
For bigger shoots, it’s usually a two-week course of—beginning with conceptualizing and sourcing seems to be, then capturing, adopted by one other week devoted to wrapping up and returning every little thing. By the tip, I simply need the garments out.
How would you describe your aesthetic?
My work is unquestionably a bit polished, however I all the time love to do one thing that feels sudden and layered and just a little bit off-kilter. Individuals come to me for one thing that feels totally different and even just a little large. I like a large silhouette and enjoying with texture, colour, and layering. I all the time method styling from a novel place every time I can in order that it appears like creating, not simply copying and pasting.
The place do you discover inspiration?
I’m an web child, for positive. I’m all the time on all of the blogs, Tumblr, Fashions.com, and shopping for magazines and old style books on eBay, type of obscure ones, not simply the Taschen runway books. If I see one thing with a fantastic cowl, I’ll order it; there’s all the time one thing inspiring inside. Or if my buddy has on one thing that’s fly, I’ll take an image of them to tug from later. Inspiration is in every single place. One among my favourite editorials was impressed by a visit to the aquarium.
How do you keep forward of traits whereas sustaining a signature model?
Development forecasting is about trying on the runways, seeing frequent threads, and watching avenue model, seeing what all the children and the ladies downtown are carrying. On the identical time, referencing older books and staying true to what visually speaks to you is extra essential than chasing traits. You’ll be able to all the time incorporate traits right into a story when the time is correct, however while you’re telling private tales or creating distinctive business work, you want your personal inspiration to attract from. I additionally assume that when your work isn’t solely trend-driven, it feels extra timeless.
What was the second you knew you made it as a stylist?
Can we ever actually attain that? I really feel like I’m nonetheless ready for that second. I do know that I really feel profitable. I’m working persistently, and I’m doing editorials that I like. I really feel profitable within the sense that I’ve been in a position to have a steady profession. 5 years of freelancing, is troublesome in New York. Not working with {a magazine} and being by yourself is an uphill battle, and it’s aggressive. I’ve lots of returning shoppers, so it makes me really feel like I’m doing my job proper. However I’m nonetheless ready for that second the place I’m going to burst into tears and be like, “Oh my God, I actually made it!”
What latest tasks stand out to you?
I did a hair story with ESSENCE final September, and I beloved that story. We had been speaking in regards to the historical past of Black hair, and it felt actually nostalgic. I received to tug lots of designers I beloved in the mean time, in order that was enjoyable for me. I additionally went to the Cayman Islands in November with the Worldwide Division of Journey, and we shot a giant business. I styled about 80 individuals. That was an enormous push, but it surely was a spotlight of my 12 months as a result of I received to be on the seaside whereas working.
What recommendation would you give younger Black stylists attempting to interrupt into editorial and business styling?
I all the time inform individuals to achieve out. You have to be sending your resume. Not each stylist likes DMs, however typically it’s good to simply ship a DM and say, ‘Hey, I like your work, and I despatched you an e mail.’ Most stylists have their e mail on their web page, so simply click on it and ship just a little cowl letter. Additionally, have a look at who their assistants are and attain out to them. Usually, assistants are on the lookout for assist and are simpler to achieve. Assistants rent interns and second assistants, in order that’s a good way in.
As soon as [you’re] on set, deal with studying. Take up as a lot info as potential, be useful, take notes, and take note of each element. Make your self accessible when alternatives come up so individuals keep in mind you and affiliate you with a robust work ethic. These small actions make a long-lasting impression, and folks will likely be extra more likely to rent you once more. All of it comes all the way down to networking, reaching out, and proving your self when you get the chance.
What’s subsequent for you?
Proper now, I’ve been performing some influencer work, which has been thrilling. I by no means thought-about it earlier than, but it surely simply type of fell into my lap, whether or not collaborating with Nike or different manufacturers. However largely, I wish to deal with private tasks this 12 months. I’ve spent years prioritizing editorial or business work, and now I wish to push my very own narratives and inform tales that matter to me.
