The Expat Experience in Ghana: A Journey to Roots and Home

On a humid January afternoon in Accra, a pivotal moment unfolded for Christa Núñez, a 51-year-old Cornell Ph.D. student, when she booked five one-way tickets to Ghana. In her words, it just happened to be Inauguration Day—a date that became symbolic for her after Trump’s victory. Feeling a need to exit the U.S. amid political turmoil, Núñez sought solace and a fresh start in a country that holds deep ancestral connections for many in the Black diaspora.

The Call of Home

Núñez is not a stranger to relocations driven by political factors. After spending 11 years in California with her family, the encroaching wildfires pushed her to purchase a farm in Ithaca, New York. During the pandemic, she and her close friend Davi Mozie—herself an expat originally from the Bronx—launched a temporary outdoor school for children. It was during this time that Núñez received a Fulbright scholarship for research in Black land politics, solidifying her decision to choose Ghana as her research site.

The Rich Tapestry of Ghanaian Culture

Dressed in a traditional blue wax-print dress, Núñez shared her enthusiasm for Ghana’s vibrant history and its significance for the African diaspora. “Not only is it one of the countries that many of my ancestors came from, but it also has a deep connection with African-Americans,” she stated, underscoring her desire for cultural immersion. Her children, ages 16, 13, and 7, adapted quickly to their new surroundings. Enrolled in an international school in the affluent East Legon neighborhood, the children enjoy beach outings, swim team activities, and have clung to the same familiar routines they had back in the States.

Ghana: A Magnet for the Diaspora

Ghana has historically attracted Black Americans, particularly since its independence in 1957. Kwame Nkrumah, the first president, actively encouraged Black Americans to visit and reconnect. Notably, W.E.B. Du Bois was offered a house and citizenship, highlighting Ghana’s commitment to the diaspora. The Year of Return in 2019 marked a significant resurgence in interest, coinciding with the 400th anniversary of the first enslaved Africans brought to Virginia. Ghana welcomed 1,130,307 international visitors that year alone, promoting its warm invitation to the Black diaspora.

A Safe Haven

While the allure of Ghana is undeniable, it also serves as a sanctuary from the racial politics of America. Amid rising instances of police violence and societal unrest in the U.S., Núñez and others like her see Ghana not just as a vacation destination but as a place of safety and belonging. For many, this migration is less about leisure and more about seeking a refuge where they can reclaim their heritage and identity.

Confronting Local Tensions

However, this wave of migration has been met with complications. Since 2019, the sale of land to diaspora returnees sometimes occurs without the consent of local farmers, leading to disputes over access and ownership. In places like Asebu, where beachfront properties are highly sought after, farmers have even initiated legal action against local chiefs who have sold land to incoming Americans. The dynamics can be complex, revealing a tension between the dreams of returnees and the livelihoods of local residents.

The Challenge of Belonging

Living in Ghana is not as straightforward as many new arrivals imagine. Núñez articulated the struggle of reconciling her identity as someone who sees herself as “home” while simultaneously grappling with feelings of foreignness. Her experience encapsulates a broader sentiment experienced by many in the Black diaspora: the challenges of integration and acceptance in a land that feels simultaneously welcoming and unfamiliar.

Navigating Two Worlds

Nana Akosua, who has lived in Ghana for over two decades, echoes similar sentiments. Since moving on a Fulbright grant and later from Atlanta in 2004, she has immersed herself in Ghanian life while also serving as the president of the African-American Association of Ghana. Reflecting on her experiences, she remarked, “People just tired of the b.s. in the States, and they’re looking more or less for peace of mind.”

Cultural Connections

For many like Núñez and Akosua, Ghana represents not only a physical relocation but an emotional journey toward reconnecting with their African roots. Akosua cites Maya Angelou’s memoir, All God’s Children Need Traveling Shoes, to underline the parallels between past and present experiences of Black Americans in Ghana. The cultural fabric of Ghanaian society—the nightlife, community gatherings, and traditions—offers a glimpse into a world where they can momentarily escape from the everyday struggles of racial injustice in the U.S.

The Nightlife and Cost of Living

Accra’s vibrant nightlife and significantly lower cost of living compared to major U.S. cities are additional draws. Akosua highlighted that enjoying a night out without the fear of violence or heavy policing had been liberating. The recent Detty December celebrations draw people from around the globe to partake in a series of lively events with no restrictions or early closing times.

Real Estate and Economic Opportunities

The economic landscape is shifting as well, with many newcomers looking to invest in property. Economic opportunities abound, but these ventures come with complexities. Real estate investments can promise lucrative returns, but they also risk fueling local housing crises as young Ghanaians find themselves priced out of their own neighborhoods.

Bridging Cultural Gaps

Núñez envisions a future where she and her family can live authentically in Ghana, avoiding the label of “migrant” due to its various implications. With plans for citizenship and ongoing engagement in local life and community, her family aims to establish roots in a country that offers both personal and cultural fulfillment. They hope to navigate their journey with sensitivity, understanding the implications of land ethics while cherishing their inherited connections.

The Shared Journey of the Diaspora

The expat experience in Ghana is multifaceted and rich with emotion. For many, the journey is not merely about geographical relocation but a deeper exploration of identity and belonging within a community that feels both familiar and new. This complex dance between history, heritage, and contemporary realities continues to shape the experiences of those returning to their ancestral lands, offering a platform for healing and understanding against a backdrop of shared African and African-American narratives.