This October, the United States will have the honor of representing itself at the prestigious Mondial Du Pain for the first time since 2017. The cherry on top? The talented team hails from Cleveland Heights.
Often referred to as the “Olympics of bread baking,” the biennial competition in France gathers top bakers from around the world, showcasing the best in artisan baking. This year, Cleveland Heights will be proudly represented by On The Rise Artisan Breads’ Owner and Head Baker, Brian Evans, along with his assistant baker, Val Kertesz, and coach Louis Volle, a celebrated James Beard semifinalist and past Mondial medalist.
Evans expressed his excitement, stating, “Twenty-one different countries from around the world. There is no greater honor than being able to compete at something like this.” He embarked on this journey by applying to represent the U.S. in early 2024 and described the selection process as lengthy yet incredibly rewarding.
In a touching turn of events, Evans received the call that confirmed his selection on his birthday last June, a moment he cherishes. “I had a smile from ear to ear,” he reminisced, with Kertesz adding, “The thrill of that has never really died down.”
A unique requirement of the competition is that the assistant baker must be under 23 years old, making Kertesz, who is 20, an ideal fit. “It’s been a really incredible journey. I’m incredibly honored to be working with Brian and Louie,” Kertesz shared, highlighting how their collaboration has dramatically enhanced her skills and knowledge over the past year.
Despite neither Evans nor Kertesz having competed at this level before, both are enthusiastic about the challenge ahead. They will be tasked with creating 18 different pastries within a grueling time frame of approximately 11 hours. Interestingly, products need to be ready for tasting five hours into the competition, and judging occurs every half hour thereafter, adding to the intensity of the event.
While the team will enjoy a degree of creative freedom, they must also adhere to strict production criteria. “The level of precision that they’re looking for on these products is what makes the competition as strenuous as it is,” explained Evans, detailing how baguettes must weigh exactly 250 grams and croissants exactly 60 grams, both demanding absolute uniformity.
Fortunately, Evans and Kertesz are accustomed to such precision as they implement strict guidelines in their own Cleveland Heights bakery. As Kertesz mentioned, her role as the assistant baker involves scaling ingredients, setting up work stations, and supporting the entire production process. “It’s very much a support role,” she added, highlighting the collaborative effort required to succeed.
Preparations have not been without their challenges. “There are certainly nerves, but having such a long time to prepare has certainly made it a little bit easier getting this close to the finish line,” Evans admitted. With an air of optimism, Kertesz noted, “I think no matter how much time we would have, we’d never feel totally ready, but I’m confident we will put on a great show.”
Evans and Kertesz are particularly eager to showcase Cleveland Heights on the world stage, and they plan to incorporate local ingredients into their creations. “One of the people that works here has a bunch of beehives, so we’re taking some of her honey to use in our honey brioche pastry. We’ve also partnered with local millers from Columbus who source all Ohio grain,” Evans explained. This dedication to local sourcing beautifully ties the team’s competition efforts to their hometown.
Main ingredients like butter, sugar, and chocolate will be supplied by the competition itself. Both bakers recognize that while winning would be a significant achievement, the experience and knowledge gained from competing stand as rewards in their own right. “Just incredibly proud,” Evans said, emphasizing the pride they feel in representing their craft and community.
As they prepare to depart on October 13th for the competition, the enormity of the undertaking begins to sink in. “It’s funny. As the past year has gone by, it’s felt more real and now less real,” Kertesz reflected, acknowledging the immense dedication required to achieve their goals. “It wouldn’t be possible if we didn’t have the passion to see it through.”
If they triumph, the American team will walk away with the sought-after trophy. However, the camaraderie and shared experience of representing the U.S. inspires both bakers, transcending mere competition. “Following us on Instagram to see the journey, stopping by the bakery to grab a baguette, or checking out some team merchandise,” Evans suggested as ways for the community to engage and support their mission.
When the competition concludes, patrons can expect many of the freshly crafted pastries to be available at On The Rise, with locations in Cleveland Heights and the Van Aken Market Hall in Shaker Heights, inviting everyone to experience the fruits of their labor.