Asheville, North Carolina, a city often stereotyped by the Appalachian backdrop of flannels and rustic mountain charm, holds a rich and vibrant history that deserves to be told. A recent walking tour along Asheville’s Black Cultural Heritage Trail, led by Dr. Joseph Fox, unveils this untold story, highlighting the significant contributions of the African American community to the city and its culture.
One of our stops was the YMI Cultural Center, one of the first Black community centers in the United States. Here, we discovered the impressive works of James Vester Miller, a Black architect who built some of downtown Asheville’s most iconic brick structures despite having no formal education. This place served not just as a historical marker but as a testament to the resilience and creativity of the Black community.
Yet, the tour didn’t shy away from the shadows of Asheville’s past. We came across memorial placards honoring John Humphries, Hezekiah Rankin, and Bob Brackett—three young Black men whose lives were cut tragically short by lynching. These reminders of dark and painful history serve to enrich our understanding of the community’s struggles and triumphs.
Our adventure culminated at Pack Square Park during the Goombay Festival, a celebration of African American culture that has become a staple of Asheville’s community events. There, we were unexpectedly graced by the presence of local legend Matthew Bacoate, Jr., a veteran credited with integrating bowling alleys in Asheville—a reminder that the fight for equality continues in various forms, even in leisure activities.
Throughout our two-hour journey, one theme emerged: the significant history and unique culture of Black people in Asheville have often been overlooked. The popular image of Appalachia, a region mostly associated with white rural life, pales in comparison to the nuanced and rich tapestry of the place. In fact, the surroundings captured the essence of the community, adorned with sounds, flavors, and history emanating from every corner, waiting to be explored.
What Is Affrilachia?
Coined by poet Frank X Walker in 1991, the term “Affrilachia” seeks to redefine the traditional perception of Appalachia by shedding light on the experiences of African Americans in the region. Walker wanted to challenge the narrow, white-centric view that often dominates narratives about this beautiful, mountainous area.
Affrilachia offers a name that embodies the rich identity and experiences of African Americans who have long been a part of the Appalachian landscape. It evokes a sense of belonging and recognition, while also emphasizing how Black professionals have contributed significantly to the region’s development.
DeWayne Barton, founder and CEO of Hood Huggers International, outlines this shift as a vital acknowledgment. He offers tours throughout Asheville that delve into its African American history and traditions. “People need to understand that Black communities have always thrived in the mountains, contributing in various ways—whether it was building railroads or establishing thriving neighborhoods,” Barton notes.
History Buried In The Hills
Contrary to common belief, Black people have lived in the Appalachian region since the 1700s. By 1860, they represented about 10% of the total population. As white settlers migrated to the mountains, both free and enslaved Africans made their homes in these areas, living in proximity to each other and Native Americans during the early years of settlement.
Appalachia’s geography, named after the mountains stretching from Southern New York to Northern Mississippi, is divided into three subdivisions: Northern, Southern, and Central. Each region has its own distinctive history of settlement and the complexities of race relations.
Historians suggest that Native American tribes, like the Cherokees, may have held Africans in captivity, complicating the region’s history with slavery. The reliant agriculture model of the Deep South didn’t translate well here, but the Civil War split the loyalty of the population: Northern Appalachia joined the Union, Southern Appalachia sided with the Confederacy, and Central Appalachia remained divided.
The 1830s marked significant changes for African Americans when the construction of the Western North Carolina railroad magnified the demand for labor. Enslaved people were assigned to physically demanding tasks, from digging track beds to maintenance. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, many African Americans migrated to the broader Appalachian region, including Asheville, seeking better job opportunities in coal and steel industries, as well as a chance to escape the oppressive Jim Crow South.
Voices Of Modern Affrilachia
Despite comprising only about 10% of Asheville’s total population, the Black community is vibrant and resourceful, actively working to preserve their identity and heritage. This reclamation of space is not merely geographic; it encompasses dignity, memory, and a sense of belonging.
“In the time of Jim Crow segregation, the Black community managed to build their own businesses and neighborhoods,” Barton shares. “There were ‘Black Wall Streets’ across the country, including right here in Asheville.”
Asheville Black Cultural Heritage Trail
A journey through the Asheville Black Cultural Heritage Trail serves as an excellent starting point for those interested in exploring Affrilachian culture. Guided tours wind through Downtown, the Southside, and the River Area, offering stories of resilience as Black communities formed schools, businesses, and churches while facing segregation. Visitors will also hear about local civil rights leaders, the formation of Black unions, and the vital role of the railroad built by African American laborers.
South Asheville Cemetery Tour
The South Asheville Cemetery, a poignant site, started as a burial ground for enslaved individuals. While only 93 headstones bear names or dates, the South Asheville Cemetery Association believes that over 2,000 Black Ashevillians rest there. This cemetery is one of the few dedicated to African Americans in the region, making it a vital part of local history.
The YMI Cultural Center
Initially termed the “Young Men’s Institute,” the YMI Cultural Center stands as one of the oldest Black cultural centers in the country and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Its founders, Isaac Dickson and Dr. Edward Stephens, established it to uplift Asheville’s African American community during a time rife with discrimination.
As a hub for Black entrepreneurship and community development, the YMI Cultural Center symbolizes resilience and cultural pride. Even today, it serves as a pillar in preserving the rich heritage of African Americans in the region.
Good Hot Fish
Good Hot Fish, founded by Ashleigh Shanti, represents the only Black-owned restaurant in Asheville today. With a counter service fish fry concept that reflects her passion for Carolina’s fishing culture, Shanti’s establishment offers not just a meal but a nostalgic journey through classic recipes and Southern hospitality.
The Foundry Hotel
Guests at the Foundry Hotel Asheville find themselves in a unique experience rooted deep in the neighborhood’s historical fabric, previously known as “The Block.” Once a thriving business district established by former enslaved people, this area faced near-erasure due to 1970s urban renewal projects that overlooked its rich legacy.
Located just outside the hotel, Noir Collective AVL awaits, a Black-owned boutique, art gallery, and bookstore highlighting the works of local Black entrepreneurs. Situated within the retail spaces of the YMI Cultural Center on “The Block,” it features an array of books, magazines, artworks, home designs, and unique jewelry crafted by small Black business owners and authors.