Celebrating Black Culinary Heritage at The Function in Richmond
When you delve into the vast tapestry of American cuisine, it’s clear that a significant portion, especially that of the South, has been profoundly influenced by the culinary traditions and innovations of African Americans. This month, Richmond, Virginia, is set to honor these contributions and the unique culinary heritage of the state through “The Function,” an event that highlights the role of contemporary Black chefs while celebrating the rich flavors that define Southern dining.
The Event: A Commendable Celebration of Food
Scheduled for Saturday, September 27, from 2-6 p.m. at Shalom Farms Northside, The Function promises to enhance the food landscape of Virginia. Organized by Nikki Gregory and Paul Polk of Charlotte’s Southern Deli, along with local food writer James L. Ford III, this gathering isn’t just about eating; it’s a heartfelt celebration of community and culinary history.
Attendees can expect to savor dishes crafted by some of Richmond’s most talented Black chefs, including Leah Branch of The Roosevelt, Mike Lindsey of Lillie Pearl, and Oscar Johnson and Shenarri Freeman, both James Beard nominees. The focus will be on barbecue and fish fry, techniques rooted deeply in African American cooking traditions, showcasing the connection to land and water.
A Culinary Gathering with Purpose
“This is an experience where no one is saying they’re running to get food real quick,” Polk emphasizes. Instead, the aim is to foster a communal atmosphere where everyone can gather, share stories, and savor delightful bites. Gregory echoes the sentiment with excitement about creating an elegant, relaxed environment akin to what you might see in cooking competition shows but rooted in authenticity.
The day will not only present mouthwatering food but also cover educational topics like African American foodways. Attendees can look forward to engaging discussions led by experts, including a talk by food anthropologist Debra Freeman on the historical significance of barbecue in America—an art form deeply intertwined with the narratives of African Americans.
Delving into Culinary History
To appreciate the significance of this event, it’s essential to acknowledge the historical underpinnings of barbecue and fish fry within African American culture. Barbecue—as a cooking technique—has origins that span across cultures, influenced by the Taíno people of the Caribbean, Native Americans, and European settlers. As culinary historian Michael Twitty articulately states, African and Native American cooking styles are foundational to the American barbecue tradition.
The practice of roasting whole animals, particularly in the context of whole-hog barbecue that attendees will experience at The Function, has roots in the enslaved community’s culinary practices. For these individuals, barbecuing presented one of the rare chances to enjoy fresh meat, thus serving as a form of both nourishment and community bonding.
Fish fries hold a similarly rich history. Common among African American families, these communal events emerged as a way to share not only food but also fellowship. Post-abolition, fish fries became integral to the social fabric of Black communities, offering a space for connection, particularly during the Great Migration.
The Culinary Lineup
At The Function, participants can expect a vibrant selection of dishes that reflect the diversity of Southern cooking. From whole-hog barbecue to contemporary fare like lion’s mane mushroom pie and watermelon donuts, the menu showcases how traditional flavors can intermingle with modern culinary innovation.
Further enhancing the experience will be offerings from Black-owned beverage businesses, such as Noire Sunshine Winery, ensuring a drink menu that complements the food perfectly.
Personal Stories and Culinary Influences
The founders of The Function bring their unique culinary legacies to the forefront. Ford, hailing from Smithfield, VA, attributes his culinary journey to the fond memories of familial gatherings centered around seafood and pork, with recipes handed down through generations. Polk, whose family background is steeped in watermen culture, recalls how access to fresh seafood shaped his everyday meals.
Gregory, influenced by both her father’s profession as an executive chef and her Appalachian roots through her grandfather, aims to showcase the treasures of her family’s culinary heritage, including cherished recipes and heirloom kitchen tools.
A Vision for Community and Fellowship
The Function seeks not only to highlight extraordinary food but to bring people together in celebration of their shared culture and history. Gregory expresses, “I’m really excited to be around people who want to enjoy the same thing all together,” encapsulating the essence of this engaging event.
As the founders look forward to making The Function an annual celebration, they share a common vision: to honor the culinary arts shaped by African American history while fostering community bonds through food.
Event Details:
- What: The Function—Barbecue and Fish Fry
- Where: Shalom Farms Northside, 1311 Westwood Ave, Richmond, VA
- When: Saturday, September 27, 2-6 p.m.
- Tickets: Available here.
This gathering encapsulates the heart and soul of Southern cuisine, celebrating the past while looking toward the future of food and community.